Pangya Emoticons BBcode transliterator

I made a PangYa Emoticons BBcodifier because I've always wanted one.

Well, this is quite obscure, and unless you both play or have played PangYa, and like to spam forums that allow BBcode, it might not be of much interest to you.

Yes, I'm only somewhat disappointed by the lack of a gsub function in Javascript and that I must use Prototype.js just for that, but I am otherwise quite proud of this convenient way to spam your online communities with vigorous, varied emotions.

Automatic screen display brightness dimmer

I wrote an experimental script for Windows XP and Nvidia users, having fun with Python.

I'll copy/paste several lines from it to explain it:

nvautodim.pyw

Script tested using the following:

• WinXP Pro SP2
• XFX Nvidia Geforce 7600 GT
• Nvidia Forceware drivers (version 178.13)
• Python 2.5.1

This script is meant for computer addicts whose computers stay in one area. It is meant to make the user more aware of what time it is and that sleep is unfortunately a required biological process.

What it does:

This python script runs in the background, periodically updating the apparent screen brightness of your display(s) according to a daily schedule.

It works by telling the Nvidia chipset to modify its brightness and contrast settings, for the desktop and DirectX apps. It does not necessarily modify brightness/contrast for video playback overlays. Optionally, the script also modifies Windows' own gamma ramp (Note: doing this affects all displays)

Ideally, one could control the brightness and contrast through the hardware of the actual displays to make better use of a contrast ratio, but this cannot be done, and people might just be upset with their time spent with calibration anyhow.

Requirements:

Nvidia-based graphics and recent video drivers (this is actually optional if the gamma ramp is suitable enough and works) (anyone who wants this for ATI and can help is free to contribute) WinXP... not so sure about WinVista but you can test it for me :/ Python 2.5 or newer I s'pose... (use the windows installer from python.org)

Afterthought

Actually, I guess it does mess up people's display calibration. I guess one wouldn't seriously use this if working with graphics any, since it doesn't currently back up settings at all.

Keyboard, recased with wood

I decided to spruce up my favorite keyboard, some.

In 2005, I bought an I-Rocks KR-6110 keyboard from Newegg, because it was exciting then for short-stroke scissor-style keys on a desktop keyboard to be in the awesome standard 104 key layout that I just cannot do without. Prior, I was using a Zippy keyboard with some re-purposed laptop key pads, so the layout was undesirably compact.

The low-profile 6110 offers ergonomics no longer considered by I-Rocks, apparently, as they prefer fat round cases now. Less than a day of using the keyboard, I had stripped it of its casing and enjoyed the resulting typing experience.

Afforded to me was a profound freedom of movement for fingertips to strike keys. Just groping around for the keys between the mainpad and numpad was enough to convince me that naked keyboarding is the way to go. No bezel around the F keys, no bezel around Esc. Without a bezel in the way, all is keys again: a triumph for nearly flush-mounted laptop-style desktop keyboards.

After two years of using the keyboard like this, I felt like it was overdue in needing an enclosure to make it less ugly.

A year after that, I actually felt like doing it. Half of the alphabetic labels were rubbed away by then. I began by removing the remaining key labels for those groups significantly affected, and by trimming material around the frame base to make room for a new one.

Being the packrat that I am, I used materials on hand. I had made keyboard cases out of plastic, and of metal, but not yet wood. I had some wood: hardwood dowel, and craft wood strips purchased around 2001.

Here is the test-fitted frame after some carving, shaping, and light sanding:

The design is a faithful redux of the original 6110 profile. It's a damn shame that it seems impossible to get a keyboard anymore from I-Rocks in a layout as pictured, without the double-height Return key.

A big part of why it took so long to start this mod is because I could not decide what to do about the lack of a bezel around the key groups. The keys pad itself has ugly holes in it, notably the missing corner where the circuit board and LEDs traditionally go. This approach is a compromise I can accept for until it turns nasty or something.

I was almost going to just make a black bezel, as that is easy and safe around these parts.

I opted for a printed design, to pee off minimalists, and because I did not try to source thin, rigid, black plastic sheet. I'll likely replace this one with black when I find it.

Too bad printing something to scale is a bitch, when DPI means nothing across software to hardware. I lazily kept the 99% reproduction I got.

Here is the pending completed enclosure, stained, sealed, and protected.

99% reproduction explains why the keygroup holes don't exactly line up, and why it's a bit short from left to right.

The sealed bezel is apparently loosely taped to the keys pad. Like most humans, I use it from the overhead angle, so that it's not exactly stuck flush doesn't bother me much.

The Ipswich Pine 221 wood stain failed to match my desk/Sauder's "Sky Alder" finish but I'll take it.

Maybe later I will have salvaged a black USB cord and be bothered enough to swap it in, assuming the mod still functions. I have a history of ruining keyboards.

Tech Geek EDC

A rampantly circulating activity you can blog about is to show your "Go Bag" or "everyday carry" (EDC) items, the things you deliberately take with you (somewhere?) to be able to get things done.

Seeing that I don't often go out in the first place to do planned activities, I sometimes bring extra things beyond wallet and keys on my person, JUST IN CASE the need arises. And technically, my pouch of tools is a bag.

• Wallet (empty)

• Keys: keys on clips on S-shaped carabiner; Generic LED light

• Mobile phone (cheap, with detachable lanyard)

• Poor man's PDA: Ink pen, Pen, Memo pad

• PMP ($10, with detachable clip): 1GB Sandisk Sansa, with Rockbox firmware

• EDC flashlight around neck: Arc AAA with McGizmo micro clip on break-away paracord lanyard

• EDC multitool: Leatherman Micra with McGizmo micro clip

• General Purpose multitool: Gerber Compact Sport with belt sheath

• More, in zippered pouch: screwdriver with 14 bits; 6 screwdrivers (4 slotted, 2 philips); 3 allen wrenches; mini ratchet/drivers;

• Comb (unbreakable)

This is how I typically roll. When I hit the club up, I also whip out a SIMM hanging on a gold chain, to strike up conversation.

DSLR Sensor Cleaning

About a week into using my DSLR, I noticed dust specks on images; it likely already had some and I hadn't noticed.

Blowing the dust out with air didn't help. After reading about comprehensive methods for cleaning digital cameras [s]site down at time of posting[/s], I decided to go with a popular method and got some PEC*PADs and Eclipse methanol. It should be about the same as doing what this guy did.

This picture was taken at F/20, more than enough for visible dust.

[s]I will be fabricating a cleaning spatula, but I will still probably delay cleaning. It's still early on, and I don't think I should risk destroying my camera just yet.[/s]

[s]Should I be happy and bear with not being able to use smaller apertures without having to touch up photos? Or just go ahead and clean it. Hmm... [/s]

Update

I had bought the cleaning stuff and proceeded with my interpretation of the Copperhill Method. So much for waiting :X

I carved a makeshift cleaning stick out of basswood, and sanded down the head into a 14mm wide "V"-like "U" shape.

Here's another shot at F/20.

The specks I circled are hardly noticeable. I managed to remove most of the smaller dust specks but it is well improved. At least I can happily stop down some more now.

I will likely modify my cleaning stick to be smaller so that I think I can have more control around the edges. My technique is poor because most of the bigger dust specks were pushed to the edges but not picked up. Maybe I should just get a proper, pre-made sensor wand.